Taiwan Travel: 15 Tips for the East Coast around Hualien, Yilan and Taroko National Park

Is travelling to Taiwan also on your bucket list? Then you should definitely visit the east coast around Hualien. Immerse yourself in the unique nature of Taroko National Park, learn how to survive in the wilderness from an indigenous tribe and marvel at the intoxicating blues of the Pacific Ocean from the Qingshui Cliffs. Taste the infamous 'stinky tofu' at a night market and feel like you're in Hawaii at Qixingtan Beach. Here are my top 15 tips for Taiwan travel to the East Coast!

Taroko National Park is a must-see on any Taiwan trip.

Hualien: Starting point for the highlights of the region

Hualien is the largest city on the east coast with a population of about 110,000. It is about a 2.5-hour drive from the capital Taipei. Hualien is especially popular as a starting point for exploring the Taroko National Park, but even without such a tour it is easy to spend a few days here. Strolling through the city centre, you'll pass hip shops with cool styles, shops with sweet Taiwanese snacks like mochis and nice cafés and restaurants. But it's also worth taking a look under your feet, because the city's pavements are made of fine marble, which is particularly cheap due to the large supply in this area.

Nice café with great coffee in the centre of Hualien

Marble pavements run through the streets of Hualien

Living faith in Shen An Temple

I experience touching and at the same time somewhat disturbing moments during my first visit to a temple in Taiwan. On this afternoon, the Shen An Temple is visited by only a few believers, so I can absorb the mystical atmosphere undisturbed. Every time I visit a temple, no matter which Asian country, I am always overwhelmed by the detailed, elaborate architecture and the bright colours that turn these shrines into true works of art.

Of course, it is also the unique rituals that exert a strong fascination on me. In Taiwan, people only go to a temple when they have something on their mind!

They ask the gods for help and receive an answer via an oracle - by throwing two wooden crescents on the ground. One woman seems to be particularly affected, for she is struggling with tears. A few moments later, a group of purple-clad believers dances towards the altar, emitting frightening sounds. How strangely religion is lived here, especially that of Taoism and Buddhism!

Colourful, detailed architecture in Shen An Temple

No less beautiful outbuilding of the temple

A group of believers at prayer

The spicy scent of incense sticks in the air

The night market as a meeting place for the locals

Night markets play a central role in all Asian countries, including Taiwan. People go there in the evening for a snack or - as here in Hualien - to pass the time in a fairground atmosphere. Shooting galleries and other amusement stands lure visitors with a few minutes of fun and familiar prizes, but in between there are also exciting street food treasures that you should definitely try. For example, the fermented "stinky tofu", which really does spread a rather unpleasant smell, but doesn't taste all that bad with spicy sauce. Or the typical rice wine, which you can buy as a souvenir to take home.

Of course, fans of sweets also get their money's worth here, for example with warm mochi covered in ground peanuts and black sesame seeds!

My tip: If you need a short break from Asian food, I can recommend Aaron Kitchen. Whether it's pasta, risotto or salmon, the Italian dishes are a welcome, delicious change.

"stinky tofu" - a Taiwanese speciality that takes some getting used to.

The mochi (glutinous rice balls with peanuts and sesame seeds) are all the more delicious for it

Italian variety in the Aaron Kitchen

Hotel tip Hualien: I slept at Just Sleep in the centre of Hualien. The rooms are modern and large enough. I was particularly looking forward to breakfast, because in addition to a variety of soups and warm vegetable dishes, there are also delicious yeast dumplings - filled with taro, for example. Delicious and very authentic!

Taiwan Travel: The Fascinating Nature of Taroko National Park

The Taroko National Park is one of the absolute highlights of all Taiwan tours and that is no coincidence. Wobbly suspension bridges, mountains over 3,000 metres high in places, magnificent temples and pagodas, impressive waterfalls, and then there is the marble gorge that really takes your breath away. Taiwan's oldest national park is less than an hour away from Hualien. You can explore it in a day or stay overnight and spend a few days surrounded by beautiful nature.

Buses run between Hualien and the national park, and a visitor centre right at the entrance provides valuable information about the park. From there, a road runs through the gorge, past the most important sights. Eight main trails invite you to hike, although some may be closed. However, they are not long, a maximum of just under nine kilometres. Since rock avalanches and landslides can occur here, especially after heavy rainfall and earthquakes, a helmet is recommended, which you can rent in the park.

The entrance gate to Taroko National Park

Suspension bridges are stretched across the gorge

Bright red pavilion on the Swallow Grotto Yanzikou Trail

Stop and soak up nature on one of the many suspension bridges

Highlight of Taroko National Park: the impressive Marble Gorge

The Taroko Gorge was formed by the relatively small Liwu River, which meanders like a turquoise ribbon along the partly forested marble and granite mountains. In total, the park is 36 kilometres long and 42 kilometres wide. By the way, "Taroko" means "magnificent and beautiful" in the language of the indigenous people living there.

But what is it that makes this gorge so impressive? Well, first and foremost it is certainly the spectacular marble formations that were formed over 200 million years ago. To admire them from above, walk along the Swallow Grotto Yanzikou Trail for about 30 minutes along the road, which is not very busy. The views of the gorge are magnificent and compensate for the less than idyllic path.

It's amazing how bridges and tunnels have been built through the mountains.

Simply wow - the famous Marble Gorge

The Liwu River meanders through the Taroko Gorge

Eternal Spring Shrine: the shrine of the eternal spring

A truly enchanting motif with a serious background is the Eternal Spring Shrine at the entrance to the park, perched on a hillside. It was built for the approximately 200 brave workers who died building the road through the gorge. It seems that the waterfall below the shrine springs from it and then pours into the riverbed. You can see the shrine from the road, but you can also take great photos of it from the car park or hike up a suspension bridge and tunnel.

One of the most famous motifs of Taroko National Park: the Eternal Spring Shrine.

Hiking trails lead to the Eternal Spring Shrine

Tips for Restaurant & Accommodation in Taroko National Park

One of the few hotels in Taroko National Park is Taroko Village. Nestled in green overgrown mountains, you enter a world of its own, almost mysterious. If you are not lucky enough to get hold of one of the popular wooden huts (book early!), you can at least enjoy authentic indigenous dishes in the restaurant.

The ingredients come from the region and are sometimes unusual and strange, such as salad made from wild boar's head skin, but the fish, fresh vegetables and rice made from bamboo canes are really delicious!

Pure idyll in Taroko Village

Starter including rice wine from the mouth of the wild boar

This is what a typical main course looks like here (wild boar's head skin on the top right)

Taiwan Travel: Experience beach feeling at Qixingtan Beach

In the mood for a relaxing day at the beach? No problem, Qixingtan Beach is the perfect place. It is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Taiwan, and not for nothing: deep blue sea meets black and white pebbles that glisten in the sunlight.

The green Qingshui cliffs rising from the ocean form the backdrop.

Whether long walks on the beach - perhaps better with shoes - or simply lying on the soft sand enjoying sweet idleness, both are possible at Qixingtan Beach. Unfortunately, swimming was not possible during our visit due to the high waves. But maybe that depends on the day or the season. At night, this place creates a romantic atmosphere when the stars twinkle in the sky and the gentle sound of the sea quiets the mind.

Beach feeling at Qixingtan Beach

This is a great place to spend some time

Marvel at the 3 colours of the Pacific from the Qingshui Cliffs

Between Heren and Chongde on the Suhua Highway, another unique scenery awaits you. From a height of over 1,000 metres, the mighty Qingshui Cliffs drop vertically into the Pacific Ocean. Two vantage points entice you with a fantastic view over the lush green on the left and the blue of the Pacific on the right.

If you're lucky, you might spot monkeys frolicking in the trees!

The Qingshui Cliffs of marble and gneiss stretch for more than 21 kilometres along the coast. In 1953, they were named one of the island's "Eight Wonders" by the government. They are the only stretch of coastline in Taroko National Park where you can also marvel at the three special shades of blue in the Pacific Ocean. For many, this paradisiacal postcard motif reminds them of Hawaii.

Below the viewpoints is Chongde Beach, from which these imposing mountains look even more impressive and almost a little threatening. Swimming is not allowed on this beach, but it is well worth it for a short walk surrounded by idyllic nature.

What a view from the Qingshui Cliffs!

Here you can marvel at the three typical blue tones of the Pacific.

Train traffic through the densely overgrown cliffs

Taiwan Travel: Learn to survive in the wilderness from indigenous people

A very special experience during a Taiwan trip is a visit to the Yanks. About 80,000 indigenous people, most of them belonging to this tribe, live in the region around Hualien. In the Cidal Hunter School of this indigenous tribe, the Amis take you on an exciting journey through their former everyday life as hunters. This school is located in the Shuilian community, a 30-minute drive from Hualien.

Cidal means "sun" in the Amis language and "mother" in the cultural sense!

They traditionally formed a matrilineal community where the women were in charge at home and the men were responsible for the defence and supervision of the community. Their job was also to hunt and fish. How they survived for days in the mountains, in harmony with nature, is demonstrated in their hunter's school. The knowledge was passed down from their ancestors over many generations. Now you can learn from them.

Entrance area of the Cidal Hunter School

Ceremony for the mountain god, herbalism and survival training

We set off on the back of an old pick-up truck towards the mountains. But before we enter this area, a ceremony for the ancestors and the mountain god is necessary to ask for their protection in the mountains. Cigarettes, betel nuts and rice wine are offered to them by our guide, the 60-year-old Putu, who blows the rice wine into the air in fine droplets sip by sip while reciting a prayer. A goosebump moment that touches me deeply!

With the blessing of the ancestors and the mountain god, we now drive further into the densely overgrown, green landscape.

We pick fresh bananas from the tree, learn about some of the more than 200 known useful plants along the way (60 of which can be eaten), form a kind of ladle from a banana leaf with which we drink water from the stream and then reach a small camp. Now it's time to get down to business. Putu shows us how to make ropes and build a hut to spend the night, how to light a fire without any tools and how to attract bamboo chickens with a leaf between our lips. Of course, we have to try all this ourselves with more or less success.

My conclusion: I probably couldn't survive in the wilderness, but with a bit more practice and lessons from the Yanks, I would at least not be quite so afraid of it. Because, did you know that you can only survive three hours in the cold and three days without drinking? Arai (thank you) for these incredibly exciting insights, dear Yanks!

My tip: Since you're slipping into rubber boots for the tour, bring long socks. Barefoot, like me, an uncomfortable feeling you can avoid!

Cigarettes, betel nuts and rice wine for the mountain god and ancestors

The rice wine is blown into the air during the ceremony

Papayas, among other things, thrive in untouched nature

There are also "wild" animals here in the bush

Putu demonstrates how we can make a bag out of a leaf.

We can use it, for example, to collect water and drink it - very practical!

Now it's time to make a fire - without any tools

After a few seconds the first smoke

And soon a really big fire is burning

So tasty and so healthy: Lunch at the Cidal Hunter School

Taiwan Travel: Get to know the island's cuisine in Yilan

On the way back to Taipei, a stop in Yilan is a good idea. From here it is only 45 minutes to the capital. Yilan is both a city and a county. About 100,000 people live in the city itself, which is called the rain capital because of the high amount of rainfall. However, we were very lucky during our visit, as pleasant warmth and sunshine accompanied us on our stroll through the city.

In the historic centre, you will come across some architectural relics from the time of the Japanese occupation!

The reason I'm in Yilan, however, is for a special cooking class with English-speaking chef Leo, starting with a visit to the local Morning Market. This is where the life of the locals takes place in the early morning and mid-morning hours. People chat, haggle and buy things. We watch the hustle and bustle as scooters squeeze through, taste various cold teas and inspect the exotic goods on offer. In a shop for offerings, Leo explains to us that believers use paper money, incense sticks and even cosmetics or mobile phones made of paper as a means to communicate with the gods. Quite a strange and unknown world!

Fresh fish at the Morning Market in Yilan

and exotic fruit and vegetables

A trader makes parcels from cabbage, carrot and meat

The friendly Leo guides you through the market

Interactive cooking class with ingredients from the local market

In the lower part of the covered area, it's now time for shopping. We have to buy the ingredients for our menu, on our own! Each group is given a list (fortunately also in Taiwanese!) and has to work their way through until all the ingredients have ended up in the basket in the right quantity. Now we go out to a village that is Leo's home, where we cut vegetables, form rice triangles and fill them with tofu in the simple, authentic house of his grandparents.

Cucumber salad, soup with mussels, tofu skin with duck and rice from our own field - at the end, the table is richly set with specialities from Yilan!

The cooking course including market tour and transport costs 2,450 TWD, which is about 73 euros. However, according to Leo, it is supposedly cheaper through a tour provider because of the transport.

This card is used to buy the ingredients for the menu

Leo grows his own rice

The finished menu: simple but delicious

The cooking class takes place in Leo's grandmother's old house (next door)

There is a small private concert to accompany the meal

Sleep well and feel good in Yilan

I spent the night in Yilan at the Cuncyue Hot Spring Hotel, where I spent very relaxing hours, because in the bathroom, a Milk Nano Bath beckons with an extraordinary wellness experience. When the bathtub is filled, a white liquid is pumped into the water via a button until at some point you are lying in milk-like water. As it automatically drains away again slowly via a mechanism, it is ensured that you can enjoy perfect warmth in ideal time. It's really wonderful how wonderfully soft your skin feels after this bath.

Breakfast, by the way, is also a treat, offering a gigantic selection and even sushi or brownies to start the day!

Preparations for the "Milk Nano Bath

Here we go!

In food heaven: sushi for breakfast at Cuncyue Hot Spring Hotel

Taipei: the lively capital of Taiwan

The starting point of every trip to Taiwan is the capital Taipei, which really fascinated me. I find the contrasts that directly meet here particularly exciting and which make exploring the metropolis a real treasure hunt. Hidden, colourful temples where religiousness is lived out meet modern skyscrapers like Taipei 101, whose second-fastest lift in the world takes you to lofty heights. In the hip Ximending district, you'll be immersed in a sea of neon signs, street art, bubble teas and tentacle vending machines. And of course, a visit to a night market and the culinary highlights of Taiwan should not be missing from your Taipei visit.

But it's not just Taipei itself that offers countless sights, there are also special places in the surrounding area with unique experiences. For example, you can relax in hot springs in the suburb of Beitou or hike through tea plantations in Maokong and then treat your taste buds to a tea ceremony. My absolute favourite place, however, is Jiufen, an old gold-mining town with picturesque tea houses, winding alleys and delicious street food on every corner. Click here for my detailed article on the most beautiful Taipei sights.

Dreamlike view of Taipei 101

My favourite place Jiufen, an old gold mining town

Is travelling to Taiwan also on your bucket list? Then tell us why! And if you've already been there, feel free to give us and the other readers more tips for the island. Just leave a comment here on our travel blog, we'd love to hear from you!

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• Bali Sights: These 10 gorgeous places you must visit!

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*This article was written as part of a research trip with the Taiwan Tourism Office and Eva Air. However, I was completely free to implement the journalistic content, and my opinions are, as always, my own. There are advertising links in the post. If you book or buy something through them, we get a pro-rata commission. The total amount does not change for you. Thank you!